When you have a remaining straight section of the rod about 6" long (Fig 10). flatten about 2" of the straight part to prepare it for forming the handle. Bend it at 90 degrees to the base, and using  whatever method is convenient to you, curl the flattened end over to form the handle (Fig. 11).

    One last item remains to be made. This is the revolving base for the candle itself to rest on. Using  an appropriate dowel that will pass easily through the coils (7/8" dia. for a 1" mandrel) cut off a  piece about 1 1/2" long. Drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep in the centre of the long dimension, eg. the side. Glue a 2" piece of 1/4" dia. dowel in the hole to form the handle as in Fig.12. Stain and finish the wood as you feel appropriate, and screw it into the holder.  

    Although this may seem complicated in writing, it is quite straightforward in application. If you feel  the urge to try them, after a couple of ugly ones to get the hang of things, they come out looking  pretty good. Using the mandrel as described, on a good day, if the wind is blowing just right, the  clinkers in the bottom weigh less than twice the amount of coal put in the top, and Vulcan is smiling at me, I can crank out one in 15 minutes. Then again, some days a guy should just stay in  bed!

    The "Courting Candle" had it's beginnings a couple centuries ago when courtship was a bit more formal than it tends to be now. It's use was as follows: When there was a daughter of marriageable age in the family and young suitors began coming "a courtin' the girl's father would size up the potential sons in law, and if one pleased him, he might allow the couple a bit of time "alone together". Using the screw adjustable base, he would extend the candle above the holder an amount directly proportional to his opinion of the young swain's prospects! He would then light the candle and withdraw. When the candle burned down even with the top of the holder, it was time for Junior to leave, or face father's wrath!

Mike Dickie
Pennant, Sask. Canada